Each PV input has simple boost (step-up) converter (Cin, Cout, L, Transistor and Diode):
When voltage is high it passes it with small losses (e.g. 500V)
When input voltage is too low it boosts it (e.g. 198V -> 500V).
Additionally it work as ORing and MPPT.
Since it has two PV inputs then it has two boost converters. So, these inductors are part of these DC-DC boost (step-up) converters. Physically they're connected using FASTON terminals to the main board:
But it's not good approach for most applications since boost DC-DC converter and load will always drain battery.
1) XT1861B502MR-G (DC-DC IC)
From datasheet:
ไฝ้ๆ็ตๆต๏ผ15ยตA
Low quiescent current: 15ยตA
2)ย WS2812B-B/T (Addressable LED IC)
My measurements:
Quiescent current: 720uA
3)ย SN74LV1T34DCKR (Level Translator IC for 3.3V -> 5V)
From datasheet:
Static supply current: 1-10uA
That means (15uA + 720uA +1uA) โ 736uA will significantly affect on device sleep-mode current and to prevent additional power drain it should have additional switch.
Since typical system already has 3.3V switch and LED power relatively small it make sense to just connect boost DC-DC to it, instead of using additional switch.
Each PV input has simple boost (step-up) converter (Cin, Cout, L, Transistor and Diode):
Additionally it work as ORing and MPPT.
Since it has two PV inputs then it has two boost converters. So, these inductors are part of these DC-DC boost (step-up) converters. Physically they're connected using FASTON terminals to the main board:
No, I don't know.
BTW, this controller from Crosser CR2 ebike.
They have active TG group: https://t.me/hscope/1
1) Check voltages
2) Try to change MCU module
3) Send high-res pics of board to check soldering quality and components MPN
Hi.
If NFC integrated into display I don't think so.
If NFC connected to the display with like with 3 wires (GND, VCC, SIGNAL) it should be possible.
It worth to check if wires and connectors from display to controller are fine and consider buy new/try to repair existing display.
I see:
I can't find ESP32 right now, so I checked it with cable:
1) Try to connect it using USB-C to USB-C cable
2) Try to use fully-charged battery as power supply (instead of USB)
3) Try to change probes
Hi. After riding at heavy rain I left it for a week.
On the next weekend I tried throttle, but display showed Error message.
I removed controller board, cleaned it and replace two big aluminum electrolytic capacitors 1000uF 63V (their pins was damaged).
In your case the situation could be another, who knows how much the board is damaged.
I can't see image.
But it's not good approach for most applications since boost DC-DC converter and load will always drain battery.
1) XT1861B502MR-G (DC-DC IC)
From datasheet:
2)ย WS2812B-B/T (Addressable LED IC)
My measurements:
3)ย SN74LV1T34DCKR (Level Translator IC for 3.3V -> 5V)
From datasheet:
That means (15uA + 720uA +1uA) โ 736uA will significantly affect on device sleep-mode current and to prevent additional power drain it should have additional switch.
Since typical system already has 3.3V switch and LED power relatively small it make sense to just connect boost DC-DC to it, instead of using additional switch.
That's why it's better to use two diodes andย +3.3Vrail(you will save coin battery charge and power RTC from big battery)
It's not my link, it's link where from I downloaded files.ย
Backups available above of this link (Document + Gerber).
I would say up to ~700 kHz, if we talk about rectangular signal.
See the PWM-signal (50% duty cycle) chapter for more details with tests 10 Hz to 1 MHz.
Firstly open Device Manager (Win + R -> devmgmt.msc -> Enter) and check that your Serial Port is identified by the system.
If it's visible then check if any other software use it (like Terminal/Arduino IDE) and close it, because COM port cannot be shared.
Next part is already available:ย https://refcircuit.com/articles/16-hs402-wifi-android-oscilloscope-esp32-stm32.html